Musings and Experiments on the Art and Science of 3D Printing

Featured Post

After a five-year detour leading the global software team for Desktop Metal, I'm back with a new name ( A Hack of All Trades ), a new mi...

Followers

Browsing "Older Posts"

Browsing Category "Core X-Y"

It’s aaaallliiivvvveeee!

By SublimeLayers → Monday, December 31, 2018


First movement. Now it’s time for first print. All hot end heaters, bed heaters and fans working. No magic smoke released. Sensorless homing on X and Y working perfectly. It’s coming together fast now.

The E3D Tool Changer printer beta build

By SublimeLayers →

I have the good fortune to be one of the early betas (aka Guinea Pig) for E3D's amazing Tool Changer. At its heart, it is a CoreXY with an open front - which eliminates the one issue I have with Core XY format - you can't see it print clearly! This printer is not a "kit" in the sense that not all components are supplied. But the core (no pun intended) of the mechanical printer is included. The X-Y motion platform (Core XY) is fully assembled and ready to go as is the Z axis. The printer requires 7 stepper drivers so a Duet (Wifi or Ethernet) and a Duex2 or Duex5 board are required.

I was the second person to receive the overnight delivery from the UK (the first was in Europe). It came nicely packed in one large box. I got started putting it together immediately. The main printer frame went together in short order. The parts are beautifully machined and fit perfectly.

I chose to use four Bondtech BMG extruders (two normal, two mirrored are required) rather than the recommended E3D Titan. That's the only thing I deviated from the recommended build. What can I say. I love Bondtech extruders!

I didn't take a lot of photos of the build as E3D's site linked above has very clear and detailed photos of the printer. I wanted to get this beast built so I could calibrate and start exploring its capabilities.

In addition to the Tool Changer core, E3D will offer a wiring harness kit - which I highly recommend. Once installed it will look like this:
The "most challenging" part of the build was printing the required parts. I used SnoLab's Carbon Fiber PC+ as it is remarkably strong, high temperature resistant and looks fantastic. I did print a few parts in their Sublime Green PLA+. As I write this, I'm waiting for the last part to print that I overlooked. Of course it had to be literally the last step in the build - installing the IEC switch. I forgot to print the housing/bracket for it! It is 30 minutes from completion and then I'll be ready to commission the printer and get to work exploring its capabilities. Stay tuned!




Post 3: Core X-Y Musings...

By SublimeLayers → Tuesday, March 7, 2017
It's been 4 months since my last update Post 2: Improved Z Screw Bearing Blocks so time for an update. Things were going a little (ok, a lot) slow because I was getting caught up in analysis paralysis and over design-itis - primarily because of the hgh cost in both materials and time for the aluminum parts I planned to make. But recently I discovered Atomic Filament PETG-carbon fiber. This stuff is really nice, it prints beautifully, has great dimensional stability and print accuracy and is quite stiff. So, my new plan is to print all of the parts in this PETG-CF and get the printer operational. I can always come back and replace with machined parts if needed. This allwos me to do fast design and test print iterations (with PLA) and then a final print for the machine.

I also have a home for the printer so it is up off the floor–where it was really difficult to work on.
There it is squeezed between RazMaTazz (my Taz 4) and a Terk (a mini Kossel).

This makes working on it much easier. And the new plan is working. Here are some of the parts in PETG CF:

X and Y stepper mounts


Bearing mounts for ballscrews with angular contact bearings


Post 2: Improved Z Screw Bearing Blocks

By SublimeLayers → Sunday, November 27, 2016
I had an idea to improve the bearing blocks so they also help stiffen the frame. I designed and 3D printed a test piece to verify the geometry. It came out great so I am machining these in 1/2" x 3" aluminum now. The left and right side are mirror images of each other.


The pocket is 7mm deep for the 12mm x 7mm bearing (8mm shaft). I also test fit the bearings on the machined ends - they were perfect. The machining is excellent. 

The ball nut will need to be flipped around and they shipped bearing retainers so this will be easy. The screws (4 of them) are Hiwin 1210s (10mm/rev) and here's the machining specs:




Once I get the mounts finished I'll assemble the Z stage and table framework and figure out how to drive the 4 ball screws from a single stepper motor.

Post 1: My new Core XY build

By SublimeLayers → Monday, November 21, 2016
I've been working on a design and collecting parts for a new Core XY 3D printer. This one is BIG! My goal was to have a 300mm x 600mm build area plus a lot of Z too (540mm). I won't reveal why I need such a larger area but let me say "I have a plan"! Here's a rendering:


The folks over on the Google H-bot and CoreXY printers Group have been really helpful with feedback and design critique over the last 9 months or so. The main features of this build will be:
  • all aluminum (30x30) frame and corners - no printed structural parts
  • four 1210 ballscrews and nuts - one on each corner, these should be fast
  • .8° steppers on all axes
  • SG10 Speed Demon linear rails
  • Duet Wifi controller with dc42 (RepRapFirmware)
  • Initially an E3D V6 hot end but ultimately a quad hot end (4 in, 1 out) that I'm working on
  • BondTech QR extruder (s when I add the quad hot end)
  • MIC6 (or equivalent) bed with custom heater (likely 120VAC)
  • PEI print surface
I'll fill in more details as the build evolves. This won't be a speed build though, I have lots of other projects going on in parallel (plus life, work, etc).

More information on my posts in the Google group threads:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/sVyTyfYoOwQ
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/SncQWymq0ac
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers/u5kYZwlxk4E

This weekend I started cutting 30x30 to build the frame. Here's the cut list:
  • Long Horizontal Members: 4 @ 815mm
  • Short Horizontal Members: 4 @ 447mm
  • Vertical Members: 4 @ 835mm - keep these as long for as long as possible
I used my aluminum chop saw, careful measurement and gang cutting. I don't have a granite machinist's table large enough to do the assembly on but I do have granite counter tops that are pretty flat. I started by installing corner braces on the four vertical leg members.

Then I assembled the short horizontal members to these.

Here's the assembly. The ext step is to break out the precision machinist squares, meter stick, and other tools to square it up. Everything will be referenced off the top. I can square and level this on the granite countertop. Then I'm thinking about cutting a gauge stick to align the lower horizontal parts so they are all the same. This should ensure the top and lower members are parallel. I'll put adjustable rubber feet on the leg bottoms.

At this point I can measure and cut the Speed Demons I'm repurposing. I also need to order some additional rails so I'll do that this week. The screws, bearings and 32 tooth pulleys are all in house. I need to machine the bearing blocks for the screws, that's the next step after aligning the frame.